I whakaingoatia anō e te toa tunu kai o San Jose āna kai tunua ko "keke mochi" whai muri i te tono a Third Culture Bakery ki a CA Bakehouse kia mutu te whakamahi i te kupu "mochi muffin".
E rua tau te roa o te hoko māfini mochi a CA Bakehouse, he whare tunu taro whānau iti nei i San Jose, i te taenga mai o te reta whakamutu mahi.
He reta nā te Third Culture Bakery o Berkeley e tono ana ki te CA Bakehouse kia mutu tonu te whakamahi i te kupu "mochi muffin" ki te kore ka tūtaki ki te ture. I rēhitatia te kupu e te Third Culture hei tohu hokohoko i te tau 2018.
I ohorere a Kevin Lam, te rangatira o CA Bakehouse, ehara i te mea kei te whakawehihia ia e te ture engari kei te whakaarohia pea he tohu hokohoko mō tētahi kupu noa pēnei — he whakaahuatanga mō ngā kai raihi piri ngaungau i tunua ki roto i te tīni mafine.
"He rite ki te hokohoko i te taro ma, i te māfini panana rānei," te kī a Lam. "Kei te tīmata noa mātou, he pakihi whānau iti noa iho mātou ki a rātou. Nō reira, heoi anō, kua whakarerekētia e mātou tō mātou ingoa."
Mai i te whiwhinga a Third Culture i tētahi tohu hokohoko ā-motu mō tāna hua rongonui, kua mahi puku ngā kamupene tunu taro ki te aukati i ngā wharekai, ngā kaihanga taro me ngā kaituhi kai puta noa i te motu kei whakamahi i te kupu mochi muffins. I whiwhi te toa ramen o Tāmaki Makaurau i tētahi reta whakamutu mahi mai i a Third Culture i ētahi tau kua pahure, e ai ki te rangatira tahi a Sam White. I whiwhi reta anō hoki ngā pakihi mai i a Third Culture i te marama o Āperira, tae atu ki tētahi pakihi tunu taro iti i Worcester, Massachusetts.
Tata ki te katoa i whakapā atu ki a rātou i whakaae wawe, ā, i whakarerekē i ā rātou ingoa hua — hei tauira, kei te hoko "keke mochi" a CA Bakehouse ināianei — kei te mataku kei tūtaki rātou ki tētahi kamupene nui, whai rauemi hoki e hoko ana i ngā muffin mochi puta noa i te motu. I tīmata te kamupene i tētahi pakanga waitohu.
Ka ara ake ngā pātai mō te hunga whai mana ki te kai, he kōrero roa, werawera hoki i roto i te ao wharekai me te ao tunu kai.
I muri i te whiwhinga o tētahi reta whakamutu mahi mai i a Third Culture Bakery, ka tapaina anō te ingoa o Mochi Muffins e CA Bakehouse i San Jose.
I kī a Wenter Shyu, te hoa rangatira o Third Culture, i mōhio wawe ia me tiaki e te toa tunu kai tana hua tuatahi me te hua tino rongonui. Inaianei kei te utu a Third Culture i ngā rōia hei tirotiro i ngā tohu hokohoko.
"Kāore mātou e ngana ana ki te kī he mana tō mātou mō te kupu mochi, mochiko, muffin rānei," tana kī. "E pā ana tēnei ki te hua kotahi i tīmata ai tā mātou toa tunu kai, ā, i rongonui ai mātou. Koinei te huarahi e utua ai e mātou ā mātou pire me ā mātou kaimahi. Ki te hangaia e tētahi atu he muffin mochi e rite ana ki tā mātou, ā, (kei te) hoko atu, koinā te mea e whaia ana e mātou."
He tokomaha ngā kaihanga taro me ngā kaituhi kai i whakapā atu mō tēnei kōrero i kore e kōrero ki te marea, i te mataku kei arahi pea tēnei ki tētahi mahi ture e tētahi atu ahurea. I kī tētahi rangatira pakihi o te rohe o Bay Area e hoko ana i ngā muffin mochi kua roa ia e tatari ana kia tukuna he reta me te manukanuka. I te nganatanga o tētahi kaihanga taro o San Diego ki te whawhai i te tau 2019, ka whakawakia e Third Culture te rangatira mō te takahi i te tohu hokohoko.
I te horapa o ngā rongo mō te reta whakamutu mahi hou i waenga i ngā kaihanga taro, pērā i te whatunga o ngā kōrerorero mō ngā kai reka, ka mura te riri i roto i tētahi rōpū Facebook e 145,000 ngā mema e kiia nei ko Subtle Asian Baking. He tokomaha o ōna mema he kaihanga taro, he kaituhi purongo hoki me ā rātou ake tohutao mō ngā muffin mochi, ā, e āwangawanga ana rātou mō te tauira o tētahi TM kai tunua e ahu mai ana i te kai e kitea whānuitia ana, te paraoa raihi piripono, e hoki ana ki te tuatahi o ngā ahurea e toru i mua.
"He hapori mātou o ngā kaiwhaiwhai tunu kai Āhia. He pai ki a mātou te mochi tunutunu," te kī a Kat Lieu, te kaiwhakaū o Subtle Asian Baking. "Me pēhea mēnā ka mataku tātou i tētahi rā ki te hanga taro panana, pihikete miso rānei? Me titiro whakamuri tonu tātou, me te mataku ki te mutu, ki te mutu rānei, me te kore rānei e taea e tātou te mahi auaha tonu, te noho herekore?"
Kāore e taea te wehe i ngā māpani mochi i te kōrero mō te ahurea tuatoru. I tīmata a Sam Butarbutar, te rangatira tahi, ki te hoko i ana māpani momo Initonīhia ki ngā toa kawhe o te rohe o Bay Area i te tau 2014. Nā te rongonui o ēnei toa, i whakatuwherahia e ia me tana tāne a Shyu tētahi toa tunu taro i Berkeley i te tau 2017. I whānui haere rāua ki Colorado (e rua ngā wāhi kua kati inaianei) me Walnut Creek, me te whakamahere ki te whakatuwhera i ngā toa tunu taro e rua i San Francisco. He maha ngā kaituhi kai e whai tohutao māpani mochi i ahu mai i ngā ahurea tuatoru.
He maha ngā āhuatanga kua huri ngā mafini hei tohu mō tētahi waitohu ahurea tuatoru: he kamupene whakauru e whakahaerehia ana e tētahi tokorua Initonīhia me Taiwana e hanga ana i ngā mea reka i ahu mai i ō rāua tuakiri ahurea tuatoru. He mea tino whaiaro anō hoki: I whakatūria te kamupene e Butarbutar rāua ko tōna whaea, nā rāua i hanga ngā mea reka, ā, i motuhia e ia ngā hononga ki a rāua i muri i tana whakapuakitanga ki tōna whānau.
Mō te Ahurea Tuatoru, ko ngā muffin mochi "he nui atu i te paraoa pokepoke noa iho," e kī ana tā rātou reta whakamutu-me-te-mutu paerewa. "Ko ā mātou toa hokohoko he wāhi e noho tahi ai te ahurea me te tuakiri, e tupu haere ai hoki."
Engari kua waiho hoki hei hua e haea ana. E ai ki a Shyu, i hokona e Third Culture ngā muffin mochi rarahi ki ngā kamupene ka waihanga i ā rātou ake putanga o ngā kai tunua.
"I te tīmatanga, i pai ake mātou, i haumaru ake, i māia ake hoki ki te waitohu," te kī a Shyu. "I te ao kai, ki te kite koe i tētahi whakaaro pai, ka whakahaerehia e koe i runga ipurangi. Engari ... kāore he mihi."
I roto i tētahi toa iti i San Jose, CA Bakehouse e hoko ana i ngā rau keke mochi i ia rā, he rite ki te kuawa me te nati panana. I hurihia e te rangatira te ingoa o te kai reka i runga i ngā tohu, ngā pukapuka iti me te paetukutuku o te toa tunu kai - ahakoa kua tae mai te tunu ki te kāinga mai i te wā o Lam e taiohi ana. E whakaahua ana ngā pou pāpāho pāpori i tēnei hei momo keke paraoa raihi Vietnamese bánh bò. I pōhēhē tōna whaea, kua mahi i roto i te umanga tunu kai i te rohe o te kokoru mō te neke atu i te 20 tau, i te whakaaro ka taea e tētahi kamupene te tohu hokohoko i tētahi mea noa, e ai ki a ia.
E mārama ana te whānau Lim ki te hiahia ki te tiaki i ngā mahi toi taketake. E kī ana rātou ko rātou te pakihi Amerikana tuatahi ki te hoko waffles Āhia ki te Tonga he reka pandan ki Le Monde, te toa tunu kai o mua a te whānau i San Jose, i whakatuwheratia i te tau 1990. E kī ana a CA Bakehouse ko ia te "kaihanga o te waffle matomato taketake."
"E rua tekau tau mātou e whakamahi ana i tēnei mea, engari kāore i whakaarohia e mātou kia waiho hei tohu hokohoko nā te mea he kupu noa iho," te kī a Lam.
Tae noa mai ki tēnei wā, kotahi noa te pakihi kua ngana ki te whakahē i te tohu hokohoko. I tukuna e Stella + Mochi tētahi pitihana i te mutunga o te tau 2019 hei tango i te tohu hokohoko mochi muffin a Third Culture i muri i te tono a te toa tunu kai o te rohe o Bay Area ki a Stella + Mochi o San Diego kia mutu te whakamahi i te kupu, e ai ki ngā tuhinga. E kī ana rātou he whānui rawa te kupu hei tohu hokohoko.
E ai ki ngā tuhinga a te kooti, i whakautu a Third Culture me tētahi kereme takahi tohu hokohoko, e kī ana ko te whakamahinga a te toa tunu kai o San Diego i ngā muffins mochi i whakapoauau i ngā kaihoko, ā, i "kino kore e taea te whakatika" ki te ingoa o Third Culture. I roto i ngā marama, i whakatauhia te kereme.
I kī ngā rōia mō Stella + Mochi he mea huna ngā tikanga o te whakataunga, ā, kāore i pai ki te tuku kōrero. Kāore te rangatira o Stella + Mochi i pai ki te uiuitia, me te kī he whakaaetanga kāore e whakaaturia.
"Ki taku whakaaro kei te mataku te iwi," te kī a Jenny Hartin, te kaiwhakahaere whakawhitiwhiti kōrero mō te pae rapu tunu kai Eat Your Books. "Kāore koe e hiahia ki te whakatupu raruraru."
I pātai ngā tohunga ture i whakapā atu a The Chronicle mēnā ka ora te tohu hokohoko mochi muffin a Third Culture i roto i tētahi wero a te kooti. I kī a Robin Gross, he rōia mō ngā taonga hinengaro o San Francisco, kua whakarārangihia te tohu hokohoko ki te rēhita tāpiri a te Tari Patent me te Tohu Hokohoko o Amerika, kaua ki te rēhita matua, ko te tikanga kāore e tika kia tiakina motuhaketia. Ko te Rēhita Matua he mea rāhui mō ngā tohu hokohoko e kiia ana he motuhake, ā, nō reira ka nui ake te tiakitanga ture.
"Ki taku whakaaro, e kore te kereme a Third Culture Bakery e angitu nā te mea he whakaahua noa iho tana tohu hokohoko, ā, kāore e taea te tuku mana motuhake," te kī a Gross. "Mēnā kāore e whakaaetia ngā kamupene ki te whakamahi i ngā kupu whakaahua hei whakaahua i ā rātou hua, ka nui rawa te ture tohu hokohoko, ā, ka takahi i te tika ki te whakapuaki whakaaro."
Ki te whakaatu ngā tohu hokohoko i te "āhua motuhake kua riro mai, ko te tikanga kua tutuki i tā rātou whakamahinga te whakapono i roto i te hinengaro o te kaihoko ko rātou anake e whakamahi ana i te kupu 'mochi muffin'," te kī a Gross, "ka uaua te hoko, nā te mea ka whakamahia hoki te kupu e ētahi atu whare tunu taro."
Kua tono a Third Culture mō ngā tohu hokohoko mō ētahi atu hua engari kāore i taea te tiki, tae atu ki te "mochi brownie", "butter mochi donut" me te "moffin". He ingoa hokohoko kua rēhitatia e ētahi atu whare tunu taro, he whakaaro motuhake rānei, pērā i te Cronut rongonui i te whare tunu taro o New York City, a Dominique Ansel, a Mochissant rānei i Rolling Out Cafe, he keke mochi croissant ranu e hokona ana i ngā whare tunu taro i San Francisco. Kei te puta he pakanga tohu hokohoko i waenganui i tētahi kamupene kokotere o California me tētahi kamupene monamona o Delaware mō ngā mana ki tētahi "poma tiakarete wera." Ko Third Culture, e mahi ana i tētahi matcha latte turmeric i tapaina i mua ko "Golden Yogi," i whakaingoatia anō i muri i te whiwhinga i tētahi reta whakamutu me te whakamutu.
I tēnei ao e horapa haere ana ngā tohutao hou i runga i ngā pāpāho pāpori, e kite ana a Shyu i ngā tohu hokohoko hei tikanga noa mō te pakihi. Kei te tohu hokohoko kē rātou i ngā hua o te heke mai kāore anō kia puta ki ngā whata tunu kai.
I tēnei wā, kei te whakatūpato ngā kaihanga keke me ngā kaituhi pukapuka kai tetahi ki tetahi kia kaua e whakatairanga i tētahi momo kai reka mochi. (He tino rongonui ngā monamona mochi i tēnei wā, ā, kua waipuketia ngā pāpāho pāpori ki ngā tini tunu keke me ngā tohutao hou.) I runga i te whārangi Pukamata Subtle Asian Baking, he maha ngā kōrero i puta mai i ngā pou e kī ana i ētahi atu ingoa hei karo i ngā mahi ture—mochimuffs, moffins, mochins—.
I tino pāngia ētahi o ngā mema o Subtle Asian Baking e ngā pānga ahurea o te toa tunu kai, e ahua nei he kai kei roto, arā, te paraoa raihi piripono e whakamahia ana hei hanga mochi, he mea whai pūtake hohonu ki ngā ahurea Āhia maha. I tautohetohe rātou mō te aukati i ngā ahurea tuatoru, ā, i waiho e ētahi he arotake whetu kotahi kino ki te whārangi Yelp o te toa tunu kai.
"Mēnā ka tohu hokohoko tetahi i tētahi mea tino ahurea, tino whai tikanga rānei," pērā i te kai reka Filipino halo halo, "kāore e taea e au te hanga, te whakaputa rānei i te tunu kai, ā, ka tino pōuri ahau nā te mea kua roa e noho ana i roto i tōku whare," te kī a Bianca Fernandez, te kaiwhakahaere o tētahi blog kai ko Bianca i Boston te ingoa. Nō nā tata nei i mukua e ia te whakahuahua katoa o ngā muffins mochi.
Elena Kadvany is a staff writer for the San Francisco Chronicle.Email: elena.kadvany@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @ekadvany
Ka uru atu a Elena Kadvany ki te San Francisco Chronicle i te tau 2021 hei kairīpoata kai. I mua, he kaituhi ia mō Palo Alto Weekly me ōna pukapuka tuahine e kapi ana i ngā wharekai me te mātauranga, ā, nāna i whakatū te pou me te pānui wharekai Peninsula Foodie.
Wā tuku: Hurae-30-2022